DAY 1

Arrive at Islamabad

You will be met at Islamabad airport by your driver and guide and immediately transfer to your hotel in Islamabad. Once you have settled into your hotel, you will begin your full day of sightseeing of Islamabad and Rawalpindi.

We will begin in the old city of Rawalpindi with a visit to Raja (King) Bazaar. Amongst others, we pass through the silver and gold bazaars where we will see craftsmen working in traditional, time-honoured fashion.

We then head out from Rawalpindi to Islamabad, the modern capital city of Pakistan, along Murree Road, the main street linking the twin cities.

Quite apart from its inspiring, contemporary architecture, Islamabad is renowned for its open, green spaces: no less than 50% of the city’s 350 square miles is designated as protected park area. We drive up into the Margalla Hills to Daman-e-Koh (meaning ‘foot hills’) and gain a bird’s eye view right across the city.

Finally, we head back down to Shah Faisal Mosque, named after the late King Faisal I of Saudi Arabia. As the national mosque of Pakistan, it is the best know landmark in Islamabad, the sixth-largest mosque in the world and the largest within South Asia.

Overnight at hotel

DAY 2

Drive from Islamabad to Peshawar via Taxila

After breakfast we leave Islamabad, heading along the historic Old Trunk Road to the remarkable archaeological site of Taxila, just 35 miles away.

Taxila was once the hub of oriental high culture under a succession or rulers and dynasties. Originating from the Satrapy of the Persian Achaemenian Empire in the 6th century BC, it was subjugated by Alexander the Great and the Greeks in 327 BC. Under the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, the city developed into a major centre of philosophy, art and education, after which the dynamic Gandhara period flourished from 1st century BC until 7th century AD.

In all, there are no fewer than eight sites belonging to different phases of occupation to be explored here, the settlement of Sirkap and Jaulian monastery being amongst the very best-preserved. We also make time to visit Taxila Museum.

We continue our road journey to Peshawar, capital of the North West Frontier Province, one of the most ancient and culturally vibrant cities in Central Asia, and strategically situated at the mouth of the Kyber Pass. The story of Peshawar is one of countless invaders, each bringing their own peoples, each adding their own layer of culture, traditions and customs to its complex history. Today, it is predominantly the story of the Pathans which prevails, the daring and fearless race of legend, who now inhabit the city.

We check in to our hotel and in the afternoon begin our exploration of this fabulous historic city.

We begin by passing through the Kabuli Gate, one of the 16 gates which used to surround the city up until the 1950s, and enter the oldest section of Peshawar. We venture through unforgettable Qissa Khawani Bazaar, ‘the street of storytellers’. It has acquired this name because for centuries trading caravans from as far away as Russia and China used to converge here at which point merchants would rest and exchange stories about their adventures.

We move on through the coppersmith’s bazaar which flourished as long ago as the first century BC. Our visit leads us onwards to Mahabat Khan’s mosque, the oldest in Peshawar, built in 1670 by the then Governor of Peshawar during the reign of the Moghul Emperor Shah Jahan. The architect seems to have been emulating the impressive Badshahi Mosque of Lahore, constructing six small minarets in between two huge minarets, each towering 110 feet into the air.

We visit Sethi House Museum, built by the Sethi family, a Hindu trader family from Punjab, who migrated from Jhelum to Peshawar in the early 19th century. The beautiful house is designed in a Bukhara (Central Asian) architectural style.

Finally, we head beneath the ramparts of the monumental Balar Hisar Fort, originally built between 1526 and 1530 by Babar, the first of the Moghul emperors, then rebuilt by Hari Singh Nalva, under the guidance of French engineers, in 1830.

Overnight at hotel

4 hours driving

DAY 3

Drive from Peshawar to Landi Kotal*, Khyber Pass* and return to Peshawar

*Currently it is unfortunately not possible to visit Landi Kotal and Khyber Pass for security reasons. Therefore, until circumstances change, we will for now only travel as far as Khyber Gate (Bab-i-Khyber) and then visit the smuggling markets on Jamrud Road on our return to Peshawar.

We begin our day with a visit to the Museum of Peshawar where we enjoy its rich collection of treasures particularly belonging to the region’s Ghandara period.

Khyber Pass has taken on an almost legendary status being the narrow gateway through which almost every invader of Pakistan from the west has needed to pass since time immemorial. Although we are unable to visit the pass itself at the moment, the pass effectively begins 15 miles west of Peshawar at the Bab-i-Khyber watchtower, which we are able to visit. Serving as a gateway to the pass itself, it is considered to be the most famous post-independence structure in Khyber Agency. Overlooking the gate, stands the imposing structure of the nineteenth century Jamrud Fort.

On our return to Peshawar, we stop at the smugglers’ markets on Jamrud Road, infamous for selling goods smuggled into Pakistan from Afghanistan over the Khyber Pass, thereby avoiding paying taxes.

We return to our hotel after which you are free to enjoy the rest of the afternoon at your leisure.

Overnight at hotel

3 hours driving

DAY 4

Drive from Peshawar to Mingora via Takht-i-Bahi and Malakand Pass

We set off in our vehicles for Mingora.

First, we visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Takht-i-Bahi. Beautifully situated on a hill top overlooking the plains, this remarkably well-preserved Indo-Parthian ancient Buddhist monastery, is considered to be among the most impressive Buddhist remains in all Gandhara. Founded in 1st century BC, it remained in constant use until 7th century AD.

After climbing over Malakand Pass (1362m), we continue to the ancient archaeological site of Barikot. Known as ‘Bazira’ in antiquity, the settlement was captured by Alexander the Great in 327 BC during his Indian campaign.

We drive on to visit Shingerdar Stupa, built by King Uttarasena to house his collection of Buddha relics before, shortly afterwards, arriving at Mingora.

Mingora is one of the twin capitals of Swat Valley, the other being Saidu Sharif, just 3km to the south. Green and prosperous, it is blessed with plentiful, fast-flowing rivers. Today inhabited by a cosmopolitan mix of Pathans, Kohistanies and Gujars, it has been coveted by many through the ages. From the ancient Greeks of Alexander the Great to the Mughals during the time of Akhbar, successive dynasties have risen to power, conquered this valley, made it their home, and then fallen again.

If time permits, we will first visit the Swat Museum in Saidu Sharif which principally holds a quite superb collection of Ghandara sculptures, statuettes and friezes recovered from the many Buddhist archaeological sites in Swat, including Butkara.

Overnight at hotel

4 hours driving

DAY 5

Drive from Mingora to Chilas via Besham

We make a prompt start and depart from Mingora straight after breakfast, beginning the long drive to Chilas.

Initially heading further along the Swat valley, we divert eastwards and rise to cross Shangla Pass (2134m) before descending to reach the busy town of Besham in the Indus valley. Here we join the Karakorum Highway and head northwards.

We next stop at Shatial bridge on the Indus river. In ancient times, many Buddhist missionaries, Sogdian merchants and pilgrims passed through here, some leaving behind their own particular marks on the rocks as they did so. These range from seemingly casual graffiti to some very fine rock petroglyphs. In all, more than 700 petroglyphs and over 1000 ancient inscriptions in more than 10 languages can be found in the area.

Soon afterwards we stop at Thalpan, where we explore a second, very different rich collection of ancient petroglyphs. Many of these can be seen right at the very roadside, the oldest dating date back almost 3000 years to around 600 BC.

Finally, we arrive at Chilas. Although only a small bazaar town today, it was once an important junction on the Old Silk Road. We sleep for the night in Chilas.

Overnight at hotel

8 hours driving

DAY 6

Drive from Chilas to Karimabad

From Chilas, we continue along the Karakorum Highway, initially drive eastwards with fantastic views of snow-capped Nanga Parbat (8126m), the western buttress of the western Himalyas, to our right.

Soon we are heading northwards once again, and then rounding another magnificent peak, Rakaposhi (7788m). As we approach Karimabad, the Hunza Valley appears as a fairytale land surrounded by further beautiful rugged, snow-capped mountains. including Ultar Peak (7388m), Ladyfinger Peak (6000m) and Diran (7266m)

Once we reach Karimabad, we settle into our hotel and spend the rest of the day by starting our exploration of this wonderful town.

First, we visit Altit Fort, spectacularly situated on a cliff edge overlooking the Hunza river valley. Although its primary function was initially defensive, it also served as the seat of power of the Mir of Hunza and dates back about 900 years.

In the evening, just before sunset, we drive to the view point called Duikar for a panoramic view of the valley and watch the sun going down over the mountain tops. We return to Karimabad.

Overnight at hotel

5-6 hours driving

DAY 7

Drive from Karimabad to Gilgit

Before leaving Karimabad, we continue our exploration of this magical town. We start the morning by taking a stroll through the bazaar, stretched out all along its lanes snaking steeply uphill to Baltit Fort, and enjoy the richness of the local arts and crafts on display here.

Baltit Fort is probably the most significant built landmark in the region. Formerly the palace of the mirs of Hunza, its architecture reflects the strong links with Tibet at this time. Now about 700 years old, the fort remained continually inhabited until as recently as about 1960.

It stands magnificently upon an artificially flattened spur just below Ultar Glacier, while Ultar Peak, rising majestically directly behind it, provides a most wonderful and dramatic backdrop. From this position, strategically located with such a commanding view of the Hunza Valley, the mirs of Hunza were in perfect position to control the seasonal trans-Karakorum trade between South and Central Asia.

We then drop lower down the valley side towards the valley floor to find the 1000-year old village of Ganesh. Believed to be the oldest settlement in Hunza, we can still see its formidable ancient watchtowers and visit its richly carved traditional mosques.

We then leave Karimabad, descending along the Karakoram Highway and soon arriving back at the old tribal town of Gilgit. In ancient times Gilgit grew as an important bridging town and a crossroads on the Old Silk Road, acting as a natural hub for merchants travelling from as far away as China in the East and the Arabian Sea and Europe in the West.

We visit its bazaar and the old British cemetery in which the nineteenth century British explorer, George Hayward, is buried. If we are lucky, we might see a polo match at the Gilgit polo stadium while we are in town.

Whatever our motive for visiting Gilgit, the journey here, through a landscape which at times is quite desolate, along vertiginous valleys lined by lofty peaks and cascading waterfalls, is altogether unforgettable.

Overnight at hotel

2.5 hours driving

DAY 8

Drive from Gilgit to Naran

We leave Gilgit and, once back on the KKH, we continue our drive southwards before leaving this magnificent road for a final time, branching off along the Khagan Valley.

We cross Babusar Pass (4175m) and reach Lulusar Lake. This photogenic, 160km-long valley is set against forested peaks of the lesser Himalayan range and is one of Pakistan’s most popular summer holiday spots.

We then drive on to Naran, beautifully located at the point where the valley widens and the river quietens. It is an excellent location for fishing. Attractively surrounded by stone and boulder fields, Naran offers good views further down valley while picturesque tree-covered islands lie nearer at hand.

We settle down for the night in Naran.

5 to 6 hours driving

DAY 9

Drive from Naran to Islamabad

We complete our journey southwards out of the mountains, enjoying the mountain scenery for a final time, before arriving back on the plains of Pakistan and continuing to Rawalpindi and Islamabad.

Overnight at Islamabad.

6 to 7 hours driving.

DAY 10

Depart from Islamabad airport

Today is a free day up until your transfer back to Islamabad airport in good time for your departure flight.